The well-dressed man has always understood that the difference between dressed and well-dressed lies in the details. A good suit is a foundation; the accessories built upon it are what make an outfit distinctive, personal, and worth remembering.
The Philosophy of the Well-Dressed Man
There is a difference between a man who wears clothes and a man who dresses. The former uses clothes for warmth and social acceptability. The latter uses them as a form of self-expression, communicating something about his values, his history, and his attention to the world. Accessories are the clearest expression of this difference, because they are entirely optional. No one needs a hand-carved walking cane or a seven-fold silk tie. A man who has them has chosen them, and that choice communicates character.
The tradition of the English gentleman's accessories is one of the most developed in the world. It encompasses objects refined over centuries: the umbrella, perfected by Fox in Somerset; the walking cane, carried by every man of consequence from the seventeenth century onwards; the silk tie, elevated in the mid-twentieth century to its present status as the primary vehicle for male sartorial expression. Each of these objects has a history, a craft, and a set of rules that, once understood, can be applied with confidence.
This guide is for the man who wishes to build a collection of luxury accessories with coherence and intelligence. It is not a list of things to buy — it is a framework for understanding what each category means, what distinguishes quality from mediocrity within it, and how the pieces work together as a whole.
The Luxury Umbrella
The umbrella is the most underestimated accessory in a man's wardrobe. In a city like London, where rain is a near-daily occurrence between September and April, a man carrying a good umbrella is carrying an accessory he uses every day. Yet most men carry a cheap canopy on a flimsy wire frame, purchased in a pharmacy in a moment of precipitation, and replaced when it breaks — which is invariably within six months.
A luxury umbrella is built differently. The frame is solid ash or maple; the stretchers are steel or fibreglass, engineered to flex rather than snap in wind; the handle is hand-turned from malacca cane, cherrywood, or maple, and shaped to fit the hand naturally. The canopy is tightly woven from a 190-thread-count nylon or, for the most refined examples, a woven silk blend that sheds water instantly and does not billow in cross-winds.
There are a handful of makers who have mastered this object. Artisan Umbrellas represents the best of traditional umbrella craft, with designs that range from the discreet black city umbrella — the appropriate choice for business settings — to more expressive herringbone and tartan designs for country wear. Artevaris's men's umbrellas collection gathers the finest options across these makers: umbrellas in which the handle, frame, and canopy have been considered as a whole rather than assembled from the cheapest available components.
The choice of umbrella for a man who dresses formally is simple: black canopy, wooden handle (cherry or maple), matching ferrule. For a man with a more expressive wardrobe, a dark navy or bottle green canopy with a lighter handle introduces variety without excess. The hooked handle is the traditional choice and enables the umbrella to be hung from a coat hook or held elegantly over the arm when not deployed.
The Walking Cane
The walking cane's position in the gentleman's wardrobe is undergoing a significant revival. Stripped of its twentieth-century association with infirmity, the cane is increasingly carried by men who dress with intention: as a finishing detail, as an object of craft, and as a visible statement that the carrier has considered his appearance with some seriousness.
The finest canes are made from dense hardwoods that develop a patina with use. Blackthorn — the traditional material of the Irish shillelagh and the English country cane — is perhaps the most characterful: its dark bark and knotted surface give each stick an individual character that cannot be replicated by a lathe. Cherry and walnut are finer-grained options that take a polish beautifully and suit a more formal urban context. Ebony is the most formal of all: a black ebony shaft with a silver or gilt handle is appropriate for evening wear in the same way that a black shoe is appropriate for a dinner suit.
Art Walking Sticks has one of the most comprehensive ranges of handcrafted canes available, with pieces produced by artisans in the UK, France, Spain, and Germany. Their catalogue spans Derby-handled town canes, Fritz-handled walking sticks for practical country use, and ornately carved collector's pieces with handles in the form of animals, faces, and abstract sculptures. Artevaris's walking canes collection features a curated selection from these and other makers, chosen for the quality of the wood, the precision of the turning, and the character of the handle.
The Silk Tie
The tie is the most scrutinised element of a man's formal dress. It occupies the centre of the visual field and draws the eye toward the face, which means that its quality — or lack of it — is immediately apparent. A cheap tie in a synthetic fabric hangs poorly, ties badly, and communicates a disregard for detail that undermines the rest of an otherwise considered outfit. A fine silk tie does the opposite.
The benchmark for premium silk ties is the Como region of Lombardy, where the weaving and printing traditions that produce the world's finest textile have been concentrated since the Renaissance. A true Como silk has a lustre that is visible from across a room: it is not shiny in the way that cheap polyester is shiny, but glowing, with a depth that changes as the light falls on it from different angles.
The construction of a fine tie matters as much as the fabric. A seven-fold tie — meaning the silk is folded seven times without an interlining — has a weight and drape that makes it easier to tie and more satisfying to wear. The blade width of 7.5 to 8.5 centimetres remains the most versatile, working with lapel widths from narrow to classic. Tiegent specialises in exactly this type of tie: handmade in Como silk, finished by hand with a hand-sewn keeper loop, and available in a range of patterns from the strictly formal to the quietly expressive. A pair of ties from their collection — one in a solid grenadine for formal occasions, one in a small geometric for everyday wear — is one of the most coherent and usable accessories investments a man can make.
Shoehorns: The Overlooked Essential
The shoehorn is the most undervalued object in a man's dressing routine. Its function is simple: it eases the heel into the shoe without collapsing the heel counter, preserving the shoe's structure and extending its life. A shoe whose heel counter has been forced down repeatedly will deform within a year; a shoe fitted consistently with a shoehorn will last a decade. In this sense, a quality shoehorn pays for itself within the first season of use.
But a quality shoehorn is also an object of aesthetic interest. The long-handled version — 45 centimetres or more — means the wearer does not need to bend, which is both more comfortable and more dignified. In polished horn, cast brass, or sterling silver, a long-handled shoehorn leaning against a wardrobe or hanging on a hook in a dressing room is a quietly distinguished object: one that communicates a seriousness about dress without requiring any announcement.
Artevaris's shoehorns collection includes pieces across all the key materials and lengths, from short travel shoehorns in polished horn to full-length dressing-room pieces in silver-plate with decorative handles. The range includes both plain, functional designs and more elaborate pieces with carved handles or engraved decoration — the latter making particularly fine gifts. Any man who cares about his shoes should own at least one long-handled shoehorn, and any man who cares about his appearance should ensure it is a good one.
Pocket Squares, Lapel Pins and Finishing Details
The finishing details of a formal outfit are the elements that separate the merely dressed from the genuinely considered. A pocket square in white linen, correctly folded to show a centimetre of fold above the jacket's breast pocket, is one of the oldest and most reliable finishing moves in a gentleman's wardrobe. It requires no matching — white linen works with every suit, every tie, every occasion — and it communicates that the wearer has completed his outfit rather than assembled it.
Printed silk pocket squares introduce colour and pattern into an outfit in a way that is more forgiving than a tie, because the pocket square is a smaller area of fabric. A navy suit with a white shirt and a navy tie becomes a more interesting outfit with a pocket square in a pattern that picks up the tie's colour or introduces a contrasting accent. The rule is not to match the square to the tie — this looks coordinated in the wrong way — but to ensure they relate without competing.
Lapel pins are a more contemporary addition to the gentleman's vocabulary, but when used with restraint they work well. A small pin in brass or silver — a simple geometric shape, a miniature flag, or a subtle symbol — adds a point of interest to the lapel without overwhelming the coat. Avoid novelty pins of any kind; they undermine the seriousness of everything else and date quickly.
How to Build Your Accessories Collection
Building a collection of luxury accessories should be approached as a long-term project rather than a shopping exercise. The goal is coherence: a set of objects that work together, that reflect a consistent taste, and that improve with age and use. This coherence is achieved through patience and selectivity rather than through spending.
Begin with the essentials. A man who dresses formally needs, above all else: a quality umbrella, a long-handled shoehorn, and two or three good ties. These three categories cover the daily routine — the umbrella is used on the commute, the shoehorn in the dressing room, the ties at work. Once these foundations are in place, the more expressive categories — canes, pocket squares, lapel pins — can be added incrementally.
Buy less, but buy better. A single umbrella from Fox or a similar maker at £200 will last thirty years and look distinguished throughout. Ten umbrellas at £20 each will be replaced annually and will never give the satisfaction of the single good one. The same logic applies to every category: one excellent shoehorn is more useful than four mediocre ones. Two carefully chosen ties are more versatile than ten impulse purchases.
Caring for Fine Accessories
A luxury accessory repays investment in care. The objects described in this guide are made from natural materials — silk, wood, horn, leather — that respond positively to attention and deteriorate when neglected.
Silk ties should never be folded flat when stored, as the fold will eventually become a crease that cannot be removed without professional pressing. Instead, roll the tie loosely from the wide blade upward and store it in a drawer or on a tie rack. Before putting a silk tie away, loosen the knot carefully and allow the tie to hang for an hour to let the fabric recover from the tension of the knot.
Walking canes benefit from an occasional application of wax polish — beeswax for wood shafts, silver polish for metal fittings. The ferrule (the metal tip) should be checked periodically for wear; a worn ferrule can be replaced inexpensively and extends the life of the cane significantly. Store canes upright in a stand or umbrella stand rather than leaning against a wall, which can cause the shaft to develop a curve over time.
Horn shoehorns should be kept away from sustained heat — do not leave them in direct sunlight or near a radiator, as horn is a natural material that will warp. Silver-plated pieces benefit from an occasional application of silver polish to prevent tarnish. All leather accessories should be kept away from excessive moisture and conditioned annually with a quality leather conditioner.
Frequently Asked Questions
- What accessories should every well-dressed man own?
- Every well-dressed man should own at minimum a quality umbrella with a wooden handle, a long-handled shoehorn in horn or brass, and two to three fine silk ties. These three categories cover the daily dressing routine and form the foundation upon which more expressive accessories — walking canes, pocket squares, lapel pins — can be added over time. Start with quality in the essentials before investing in the ornamental.
- How do I know if a silk tie is genuinely good quality?
- A quality silk tie has several visible and tactile indicators: the fabric has a natural lustre rather than a shiny synthetic appearance; the tie falls straight without curling when held by its narrow end; the seam on the back is hand-sewn with a slip stitch that allows the fabric to move; and the keeper loop on the back is made from the same silk as the tie rather than a cheap ribbon. Ties labelled seven-fold are constructed without lining, which gives them superior drape and weight.
- Is a walking cane appropriate for a man who does not need one medically?
- A walking cane worn as an accessory rather than a medical aid has centuries of precedent. From the seventeenth century through to the mid-twentieth century, a cane was a standard element of a gentleman's outdoor dress, and its revival in contemporary style is a return to a well-established tradition. A cane worn with a long coat or a formal suit reads as a considered accessory rather than a medical device, provided it is in good condition and held with the natural posture of a walking aid rather than brandished or swung.
- What is the difference between a Derby and a Fritz handle on a walking cane?
- A Derby handle is the classic curved grip that forms an L-shape with the shaft: the user places the hand over the curve and the thumb rests along the outside of the handle. A Fritz handle (also called a Fritz grip) has a more ergonomic form with a wider forward projection that fits the curve of the palm more naturally, distributing weight more evenly. Derby handles are the more traditional and visually distinctive choice; Fritz handles are generally more practical for daily use, particularly for those who use the cane for actual support.
- How many ties does a man actually need?
- A well-curated tie collection of six to eight ties is sufficient for all but the most demanding formal wardrobe. The ideal selection includes one white tie for the most formal occasions, one or two solid grenadines in navy and burgundy, two to three regimental or club stripes for everyday business wear, and one or two printed silks for less formal occasions. Quality matters far more than quantity: six excellent ties will serve better than twenty mediocre ones.
